A CONVERSATION 

with Olga Martínez

We had the chance to interview the designer and founder of the brand Olga Martínez. She made her way into the fashion industry in the early 1970s. Today we talked about how she got into this business and her first steps as a designer. 

I.DID YOU ALWAYS KNOW YOU WANTED TO BE A DESIGNER? 

I started sewing at very young age with my mother´s rags. I made my first collection when I was 20. I used scraps of wedding dresses and every week I brought out new models. In the evenings I drew sketches of dresses, trousers and jackets and placed them on a table to combine everything together. When I was designing I had to also bear in mind the fabrics I was going to use for each collection : silks, crepe, raincoat … 

My team was very small at first : a dressmaker, a pattern maker and myself. All the designs were in white, and if any client wanted a different colour I would dye them with tea in the bathtub at home. 

I also started making my first short wedding dresses. Then I start introducing the tube skirts and the lace up blouses. Always in two colours : White and Beige. 

I could fit all the collection in the backseats of my car, and I went from store to store selling them. 

I began to place larger and larger orders and by the age of 22 I opened my first shop in a gallery on the diagonal (Barcelona) called : London Shop. 

Although it was not until I opened the store in Galerías Turo that I started selling on a large scale and therefore had to expand my team. 

Design wise, I have done everything, but what I would like to do and If I could I would dedicate myself entirely to it are : The jackets. I think it’s a very important piece of clothing and it’s not appreciated at all now. It is where you really see good craftsmanship. 

II.WHERE DO YOU FIND INSPIRATION? INSPIRATION BEHIND DESIGN? 

There weren’t as many magazines back then as there are today, although I’d say my style is pretty much influenced by 1960s fashion. It was a time of liberation. Designers like Mary Quant and André Courrèger marked a real revolution that inspired many designers, including myself. 

I would say my inspiration is the woman itself. I want to create timeless designs to enhance its femininity. 

III. TALK US THROUGH THE WHOLE CREATIVE PROCESS. 

The first step in any good collection is the creation of a moodboard, which is simply a collage of ideas, fabrics, textures, colors and shapes that inspire each of my collections. 

The moodboard is a key piece in this process since it allows you to have a visual support of the concept of what the collection is going to be. 

Once I have a clear concept of the collection I start to develop it and create the first sketches, I always try to capture each piece in a very detailed way.

With these sketches I make a proposal that I take to the workshop where my team creates the first samples of the collection.

Together with the pattern maker, we make the corrections until we reach the style we want to achieve and once the model is approved it is produced in different sizes.

IV. WHAT DO YOU THINK ABOUT SUSTAINABLE FASHION? 

The main problem with fashion nowadays is that it is conceived as something to buy and throwaway after. There is an overproduction of fabrics and clothing in general due to the “fast fashion” influence and firms promoting a “low cost” trade. 

Being the fashion industry one of the most polluting industries in the world, I believe we should reconsider the way we produce in general. 

One way to avoid this is to produce less and better. 

I always try to create timeless designs, pieces that will last and that you can keep as a backdrop. 

We also produce locally. 

V. WHAT IS KEY TO ACHIEVE A GOOD CONFECTION? 

The simplicity in the designs are key. You only need a good pattern and fine fabrics in order to have a timeless piece.